Tabo – Dhankar – Kaza – Kye – Khibber – Kaza (11,980 Ft)

DAY 5 - TABO- DHANKAR- KAZA

Finally, we are in Spiti. Till now we were in Kinnaur region of Himachal Pradesh. I was the first one to be up in the morning. I reached for my camera and was out of the hotel to explore the small and silent village, Tabo. It’s primary attraction is the Tabo Monastey and that is where I headed. The town itself is an island of peace and tranquility, secluded from the rest of the world.

Tabo Monastery Entrance

The monastery was a stone’s throw away from our hotel. High up in the Himalayas, elevated at 11,000 ft, the monastery here is the lifeline of this peaceful village. Indian and foreign tourists make their way to this village to visit the over 1000 year old monastery, a World Heritage Site. In fact, Tabo came onto the tourist map when the monastery turned a 1000 years old in 1996.

New Monastery at Tabo

 Tabo Monastery is said to be one of the Dalai Lama’s favorite. Unlike the other monasteries this monastery is much understated in appearance. This monastery is more spiritual and not so eye candy.

The old monastery consists of mud gompas which was surrounded by dry mountains of the region. Inside the monastery there are no lights. You are advised to carry a torch or use the torch light from your mobile phones. The interior architecture of the monastery is breath taking and beautiful with numerous wooden pillars and paintings of reincarnation of Buddha. Just when you enter the old monastery you can buy small Buddhist trinkets and postcards as souvenirs from Tabo.

Tabo Monastery

As we roamed in the courtyard, I just thought that 1000 years ago people went through so much of hardship to come to such a remote place, under such hard climatic conditions and build this monastery.

From the monastery you can see the caves where the monks went to for solitary meditation. It is said that some of them are still used by monks for meditation. If you are game, you can trek and use these caves for meditation as well.

You will find a large – “om ma ni padme hum” written on the mountain face. You will also find colorful prayer flags flying on top of every house. As we took a round around the place we saw small kids playing soccer… and that too not just kicking around the ball, but dodging and controlling the ball deftly. People amongst us were facing problem breathing and here were these kids, running around and playing soccer gleefully… wow…

We were also fortunate to see a glimpse of a wedding taking place in Tabo.

Enroute Dhankar

After visiting the thousand year old monastery at Tabo, we started towards Dhankar. Dhankar is another small town but at a much higher altitude than Tabo and has a very old monastery. The drive to Dhankar became more and more beautiful. It overlooks the fusion of two rivers – Pin & Spiti. At Dhankar, there are two monasteries – New Monastery and old monastery. The old monastery is an endangered site as it is very old but has stood the test of time. The monastery is simple and looks beautiful from afar, perched on a hilltop.

Dhankar Village

Dhankar Monastery Entrance

New Monastery at Dhankar

After the visit to the monasteries we decided to trek few kilometers uphill to reach the high altitude Dhankar Lake. The trek can be a problem for few because of lack of oxygen at such an altitude. The lake is grand and the trek is highly rewarding. Preeti and Taashi stayed back and the rest of us decided to venture on to the trek. 

View while Trekking to Dhankar Lake

Another View

Not used to exercise at this altitude, we were soon panting while going uphill. We had to take a 1 minute break after every 3-4 minutes of uphill climbing. However, we eventually reached the shimmering emerald green Dhankar Lake. There is a stupa near the Lake where you will find numerous colorful prayer flags fluttering in the wind.

Dhankar Lake

In the middle of Nowhere

We decided to relax and enjoy the lake for a while before heading downhill. The calmness of the lake soothed us and we were willing to spend hours here. After a while, we decided to head back and saw a group of horses near the lake. It was a sight to behold.

Horses near Dhankar Lake

Once back to Dhankar Village we headed to the restaurant in Dhankar Monastery for lunch. We were very tired and hungry after the trek.

Post a fulfilling Chinese lunch we headed to Kaza – the head quarter of Spiti district. We were staying in Kaza for three nights and seeing many small villages nearby – Kye, Khibber, Komic, Langza and Hikkim. 

Enroute Kaza

By the time we reached Kaza, the sun was about to set and we were tired. We checked in our hotel – Sakya Abode and decided to rest. The attendant brought us hot tea and we were in seventh heaven. We were informed by the attendant that the hotel is the first hotel of Kaza and is built in accordance with old architecture. It is made of mud and is thus cold resistant. 

We all sat in one room and played Uno. Post dinner, the hotel manager gave a home-made remedy (ginger, garlic in boiling water) to Nikhil and Nikki who were facing breathing problem while sleeping.

DAY 6 - KAZA- KYE- KHIBBER- KAZA

As usual I was up early and decided to go for a stroll. But this time I had Pramod and Nikki to give me company. Just 2 mins walk from our hotel was Kaza Monastery. It was beautiful. Our timing for our early morning visit was bang on. Just when we entered the monastery two monks started blowing shanks (conch shell). It was a call for all the monks to gather at the monastery for prayers.

Monastery at Kaza

We saw monks of all age and build running to the monastery from all the directions with cups in hand. I think after the prayers they will all be given hot tea and snacks. Once all the monks were settled in the monastery they started chanting and we could just stand there and listen. Their chanting brought peace in our mind.

After listening to their chanting for some time we decided to continue our walk and saw seven stupas right infront of the monastery. Moving forward we saw the highest petrol pump in the world of Indian Oil.

Stupas infront of the monastery

After strolling for some time and witnessing the village waking up we headed back to our hotel.

After a good shower and garam garam aloo ke parathe we headed for Kye and Khibber Village. The drive between Kaza to Khibber is surreal. The mountains are huge and you can see different shades of colors covering the mountains. After a small drive (as compared to the drive we have been undertaking) we reached the village – Khibber. It was a very small village at a picturesque location. If I am not wrong, at 14,200 ft it is one of the highest inhabited village and the highest polling station in the world. 

Enroute Khibber

While we were walking in the village and heading to the monastery in Khibber we realized that the village is empty. All the houses are locked and there is practically no one. May be the entire village have gone to their small patches of land where they grow vegetables for themselves.

Khibber

Houses at Khibber

After walking in the village and facing little difficulty in finding the monastery we finally reached the monastery. The monastery is nothing to talk about, but the view from there was mesmerizing. As it is situated at 14,000 ft plus altitude you might find it difficult to breathe.

View from Monastery

After Khibber Village we headed to one of the most awaited place in our itinerary – Kye Monastery. After going mad for fifteen minutes clicking pictures of Key monastery from afar we gave up.

Kye Monastery

At Kye, we were given tea by monks and just like at the monastery in Kaza we saw monks chanting in Kye Monastery. The view is beautiful and left us spell bound. We just didn’t want to go back. We wanted to stay here, see the vast expanse of mountains and the river passing through it. It was stunning and left all of us speechless. Just at the entrance of Kye monastery if you walk downhill you will find a small place where 3 statues in golden color are erected. Go there if not for the statues, then for clicking a picture with Kye monastery in the back ground.

Three statues in Golden near Kye Monastery

Once back to Kaza, we all headed to the main market for lunch and some shopping. In Kaza, you can buy souvenirs and gifts for loved ones. Kaza market is colorful and spacious. The items here are expensive due to high transportation cost. I found a nice place selling jackets at really economical price and another shop from where you can buy your trekking gear. I bought a couple of shawls from a shop here.

Vibrant Market at Kaza

The market was full of shops selling colorful dragon printed mugs, cups with cover, thermos, caps, mufflers, wollen socks, sweaters etc. There were a couple of shops selling souvenirs and handicraft items but were very expensive.

After loads of shopping we headed back to the hotel. Like yesterday we again made ourselves cozy in one room, called for coffee and started playing UNO. (Uno by now has become our favorite game in this trip).

Today for dinner the hotel has made authentic Spiti food. It’s more like steamed cooked food. The soup served was delicious. The main course not so mice but if you are fond of momos or steam cooked food you will like it. They had also given a potato curry which had pasta like thing in that. It was yummy. Remember the chutney served is very spicy – be careful.

Post dinner and the ritual hot water with ginger and garlic (today’s was stronger than yesterday) for Nikhil and Nikki we called off the day.

Points to Note:

• Book an Innova or a Xylo for a comfortable travel. As the roads are bad travel in Sumo or Maxx can be cumbersome.
• Although the distance between places (at times) is not far because of the rough terrain it takes a considerable time to go from one place to another. So plan accordingly.
• It is advised to start your day early and reach your destination while it is daylight. Please avoid driving once the sun sets. Driving in dark can be very dangerous.
• Please carry warm clothes including sweater, jacket, cap, mufflers, socks and gloves. Wear shoes and not sandals or chappals.
• Be easy on steps and while walking. Avoid brisk walk or running at high altitudes as the oxygen level is low.
• If you are feeling mountain sickness have chocolate or popcorn. It helps. Make it a point of sipping in water regularly.
• Please don’t litter and maintain the beauty of nature.
• Do stop over at Dhankar to see the monastery and have lunch while appreciating the view.
• Dhankar Lake is a three to four kms trek uphill. It is not meant for everyone. Trekking at high altitude is a very serious affair. Only and only if you think you are fit go ahead else the moment you start feeling uneasy stop and rest. Once you feel better start trekking downhill. 
• In Kaza we stayed at Hotel  Sakya Abode. The rooms were a little small but were built in accordance with old architecture. It is made of mud and is thus cold resistant. The staff and restaurant of this hotel is excellent. Must stay at Kaza. 
• The monastery and the temple at Kaza is a three mins walk from the hotel.
• Don't forget to stop over and appreciate the views. After all the journey is as important as the destination.

Chandigarh – Narkanda – Sarahan – Sangla (8,900 Ft)

DAY 1 : CHANDIGARH – SHIMLA – KUFRI – NARKANDA (8,650 Feet)

Finally after months of planning and research the day had come when we flew to Chandigarh to start our road trip to Spiti. We had booked a Go Air Flight from Mumbai to Chandigarh and had booked an Innova for the entire circuit: Chandigarh - Kinnaur - Spiti - Manali - Chandigarh.

We all met at the Mumbai Domestic Airport at 7:15 am for 8:35 am flight. Our flight got half an hour delayed and we landed at Chandigarh at 11:30 am approx.  Chandigarh airport has been newly revamped (ground floor for arrival, first floor for departure). We met our driver – Mr. Romi – a lean and tall smiling man, wearing his customary Kinnaur Cap.

Once our luggage was loaded, we were all set to start our EPIC Trip to Kinnaur & Spiti. From Chandigarh Airport we started towards Shimla and it was not long before we saw the beautiful view of the mountain range.

The hills, the clouds were soothing to our eyes. None of us had thought that we will be seeing the mountains within an hour of our landing in Chandigarh. Initially we all were so excited and talking non-stop --- see this.. oh look at that…  ahh see that peak… but after the initial excitement subsided we all were quietly admiring the beauty… taking it all in..

We were quite hungry and stopped over at a local dhaba named Shanty Bunty Da Punjabi Dhaba before Shimla for lunch and had our first finger licking dal makhani and naan with loads and loads of butter (Ymmmm... I love north indian food).

Shimla is one of the most popular hill station in Himachal Pradesh (other being Manali) and is a honey moon paradise. We could see mountains being broken in order to make a broader road till Shimla. After Solan, we were welcomed by cool breeze and it had started drizzling. There were times when we were not able to see the mountains as everything was covered with thick clouds.

Since it was a Saturday, many people were making their way to Shimla. Due to that there was heavy traffic and it took us a long time to cross Shimla. It felt as if I was in Mumbai again, just with a better view. Mall Road was packed, with crazy tourists buying everything in sight from Chappals to Jewellery to shawls. Half the traffic is because of tourists busy taking pictures and selfies. Post Shimla towards Kufri, there were hardly any vehicles on the road.

It was at Kufri some 13 Kms from Shimla, where we stopped to have some light snacks and tea. Just when we got out of the car, we realized that it was cold, infact very cold. We all looked for a light sweater or jacket. Once we got hold of some warm clothes we saw the beautiful view near our restaurant.

View from Kufri

The mountain range, the clouds… it was beautiful. The valley is full of pine and deodar trees and so dense that you can hardly see the rugged brown colour of the mountains. We wanted to spend some more time here by just enjoying the view but then we had to reach Narkanda for our night stay. On our way we noticed that en route there are so many trees on the mountain that the only colour that we could see is green. But darkness slowly descended and we couldn’t see much of the stunning landscape en-route.

By the time we reached Narkanda, it was dark. Our homestay was a little ahead of the main town in a very remote area. During the drive from the main town to our home stay I felt as if I have come to the sets of ‘Twilight’ movie.

The Beautiful Narkanda

Narkanda is a beautiful location and if you have time you can visit Hatu Mata Temple. We didn’t have the time and therefore gave it a miss.

Narkanda could be a very chilly experience, so keep some woolens handy. The place where we stayed (Hatu Homestay) was in the middle of hills…. And therefore very chilly.. Our rooms were were nice and cozy with a sprawling balcony. The chilly winds compelled us to slip into our warm clothing and our belly was warmed by home cooked food which was simple and delicious.

There is nothing much to do at Narkanda except to relax and enjoy the natural beauty. Btw Narkanda is a skiing resort in winters. Before I realized, I had slipped into a peaceful sleep satisfied with my day.

DAY 2 - NARKANDA- RAMPUR- SARAHAN- WANGTOO- SANGLA (8,900 Feet)

Dot at 5 am, I opened my eyes. (It’s a mystery how I wake up early at such places without an alarm). I got out of the warm bed to have a look at the mountains in the morning. From the balcony I could see the mountains covered with thick pine trees as if they are wearing a dark green colour robe. The clouds were like a crown on their head. I sat in the balcony for some time appreciating the view and solace.

After a while I went to wake everyone up. Since it was going to be a long day for us on the road and we had decided to stop over at Sarahan to see the Bhimkali Temple, we started our day early.

After a simple bread butter, omelet and tea we hit the road. It was cloudy and little chilly in the morning. After driving for 15-20 kms from Narkanda we saw the first view of River Sutlej. The roads were in good condition and quite scenic, with the mighty river flowing on your left.

Sarahan’s primary attraction is Bhimkali Temple (one of the 51 shakti peeths), dedicated to goddess Bhimkali. Sarahan is a small place but you could find decent accommodation here if you decide to stay overnight and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere of this place.

Bhimkali Temple, Sarahan

Inside Bhimkali Temple Compound

At the vicinity of the temple you will get to see the green carpeted mountains and in the middle of these mountains will be equally beautiful temple of Goddess Kali. The temple is made in a unique style with wood and is simple amazing.

You are not allowed to carry your cameras and mobile phones inside the temple and have to cover your head. You can cover it with any cloth or there are caps (made available by the temple – free of charge) which you can use.

The temple is carved in wood and the doors are made of silver. You have to climb three floors to reach the deity’s worship place. After your visit to the temple, stroll around the compound; appreciate the simplicity and uniqueness of the temple.

Unique architecture of Bhimkali Temple, Sarahan

Treat yourself with some aloo samosa near the temple… they are delicious.

Post Sarahan, the road quality deteriorates near Wangtu. At Karcham you will see the huge dam on the river Sutlej. After the dam, there is a bridge where the road bifurcates for Kalpa and Sangla. Take the road to Sangla.

The Muddy Road

Picturesque Journey 

After a few kms uphill you will enter the beautiful Sangla Valley. The drive from Karcham to Sangla is very scenic. The road is surrounded by think forest slopes offering lovely views of the high mountains. You will feel the drop in the temperature and Baspa River flowing along with you.

The Beautiful way to Sangla

Enroute Sangla

Sangla is a big town and has several guest houses available. We stayed over at Prakash Guesthouse – the rooms were spacious, hill facing and hot water was available. A tip – have your bath whenever the hot water is available, as power goes often, hence there is no guarantee of 24 hours hot water.

Clouds playing with the Mountains

View from Sangla

Another View from Sangla

A Ray of Sun

Sangla is located at a picturesque location and has Berinag Temple and Kamru Fort as attraction. At Sangla, if you are lucky with the sky being clear you can have a marvelous view of Kinner Kailash, a mountain sacred to Hindus. It was evening by the time we reached Sangla. After resting for an hour we headed to Nages Temple. It was a twenty mins walk from our guesthouse – in between which we saw the hide and seek of hills and clouds. 

Berinag Temple is again a temple in wood and has a Buddha Temple also in its compound. It’s a beautiful and ancient piece of architecture which will make you feel at peace. We saw some localities at the temple who had come to relax in the evening and catch up with each other. 

Berinag Temple, Sangla

Inside Berinag Temple

By the time we had reached the temple, the inner sanctum doors were closed. The temple closes by 7-7:30 pm, so make sure you reach before then. Since it was already getting dark we decided to head back to our hotel.

Points to Note:

• Book an Innova or a Xylo for a comfortable travel. As the roads are bad travel in Sumo or Maxx can be cumbersome.
• Although the distance between places (at times) is not far because of the rough terrain it takes a considerable time to go from one place to another. So plan accordingly.
• It is advised to start your day early and reach your destination while it is daylight. Please avoid driving once the sun sets. Driving in dark can be very dangerous.
• Please carry warm clothes including sweater, jacket, cap, mufflers, socks and gloves. Wear shoes and not sandals or chappals.
• Be easy on steps and while walking. Avoid brisk walk or running at high altitudes as the oxygen level is low.
• If you are feeling mountain sickness have chocolate or popcorn. It helps. Make it a point of sipping in water regularly.
• Please don’t litter and maintain the beauty of nature.
• In Narkanda we stayed at Hatu Peak Guesthouse and in Sangla at Prakash Guesthouse. In both the places are rooms are cosy and the food delicious.
• Don't forget to stop over and appreciate the views. After all the journey is as important as the destination.