Chandra Taal – Rohtang Pass – Manali – Chandigarh

DAY 9 - CHANDRATAAL- BATAL- CHATRU- GRAMPHOO- ROHTANG PASS- MANALI

It was time for the final leg of our trip. We all got up really early in the morning. Wore our socks, shoes, caps, jacket - packed our bags and were out of the tents.

I was greeted by a bright morning today. The early morning view of the mighty mountain tops with the gold tinged blue sky was overwhelming. I felt the cold wind just as I stepped out of the tent.

Tents at Chandrataal - Our stay

The water was freezing cold; I had a tough time brushing my teeth. We had hot tea and some biscuits while our luggage was getting loaded in our car. We clicked few pics and drunk in the mesmerizing view.. oh it was so BEAUTIFUL!!!

Once in the car we headed to Manali. Manali was our last stop on this trip. We have been to Manali before.. when we did our road trip to Ladakh in 2011.

Today we were going to cross Rohtang Pass to reach Manali and few nallas (water streams on the roads) that are interspersed with small rocks. One of the reason we started early was that it is easy to cross these nallas in the morning as the ice doesn’t start melting and hence water flowing is less. As the day progresses, the glaciers melts and the flow of water increases, thus the chances of the car getting stuck increases.

Today for the entire drive from Chandrataal to Manali there were no road at all, it was an adventurous drive. We had to get off a couple of times so that it is easier for our driver (better ground clearance of the car) to cross the nallah. Trust me you have to be ready good on the wheels in order to cross this.

Chandrataal to Manali

Enroute there are few amazing views of snow top mountain peaks with clouds hovering at the top of the peaks. It look so awesome.

As we approach Rohtang Pass, greenery starts to appear and the dry mountains disappear gradually. You could see loads of waterfalls in mountains on the opposite side. In fact, it became a game for us.. who will spot the waterfall first!!

Enroute Manali

Btw another game that we have played during our entire trip was spot the hot-wheels cars.. During our entire trip there were few cars we had seen.. so if we ever saw any cars at a distant mountain we will show the other people in the car.. “see there is a hot-wheel car” and we all will be busy try to spot the next one first.. Gosh what all we do on trips..

So, just when we crossed Gramphu the climb to Rohtang Pass starts.. The road which goes to Leh joins us after a while.

When we were approaching Rohtang Pass, the first thing we saw was the number of cars parked there.. it was astounding… there were so many cars and so many tourists.. it looked like Dadar station at peak hours. After spending so many days in serenity total deprived of people Rohtang Pass was a nightmare.

None of us wanted to stop at Rohtang and therefore we headed straight to Manali. The road from Rohtang Pass to Manali is a very smooth ride, full of greenery. It felt good to the eyes – seeing greenery after so many days..

Towards Rohtang Pass

We saw few people trying their hands at paragliding.. Our hotel was in Old Manali and was a treat to the eyes. After so many days of bare minimum existence we were staying at a hotel which seemed like luxury at the moment.

Paragliding near Rohtang Pass, Manali

Old Manali has a very hippy feel.. you will feel as if you have come to Goa. After taking a nice long hot water bath, watching some TV (after so many days), we headed out for a late lunch.

After a very delicious lunch we walked towards Hadimba Temple. It was a nice long walk where we passed through a forest area filled with long pine trees.

Hadimba Temple is an ancient cave temple and is dedicated to Goddess Hadimba who was a sister of demon Hadimb who ruled these mountains and was feared by all. The temple does not have any idol, just a foot print on a stone. Bhima (one of the Pandavas) married Hadimba and had a son named Ghatotkachh.

Hadimba Temple, Manali

There was a small queue and after a visit to the temple we headed to Mall Road of Manali. Again after walking for a while (actually walking for a very long time) we reached the Mall Road. We wanted to do some shopping but the entire Mall Road was packed with people. After all it was the tourist season. We strolled for a while and then hailed a rick and headed back to our hotel.

All of us at Hadimba Temple, Manali

We called for food in our room and had a simple dinner. We decided to call it an early night as all of us were tired after travelling for long hours on mountainous roads.

DAY 10 - MANALI- KULLU- MANDI- CHANDIGARH- MUMBAI

Today was the last day of our trip.. and with that we will complete our circuit. We had to catch a 7:00 pm flight for Mumbai from Chandigarh Airport. We had thought that we could start for Chandigarh around 9:00 am after a scrumptious breakfast. But our driver had insisted that we leave early as the route from Manali to Chandigarh tends to have lot of traffic and we can get stuck in traffic jams for hours.

Therefore, we started really early, around 6:00 am from our hotel to Chandigarh. At that time Manali was still sleeping; there were hardly any soul on the road when we were exiting.

Biding BYE to the Hills

Everyone in the car was silent today – may be from lack of sleep or from the tiredness of the entire trip.

After an hour’s drive we stopped over for breakfast at a small dhaba. After some food went in the tummy we all started waking up so maybe we all were just plain hungry and that’s why quiet.

Well nothing much to describe the route from Manali to Chandigarh except that it was a comparatively smooth ride. Driving alongside the Beas River, with total greenery around, it was a different variation from the scene we have been seeing till now.

Beas River - Manali

The Beas River had clear water and was flowing in full force. With green mountains on one side and Beas River on the other side, it was a very serene and relaxing drive.

On our drive we drove through a tunnel… and what an amazing experience it was. I have never been through a tunnel this long.. it was never ending.. we must have crossed few mountains through the tunnel.

Beas River - Giving us company on the drive

When we hit the plains we realized that it’s the month of July and its summers.. It was HOT!! After ten days we were feeling hot, we had to switch on the AC, for the first time in our 10 day trip. It was so nice in the hills – absolutely perfect.

This was the day when we did not take out the camera at all and very few clicks were taken from our cell phones.

I think either we were thoroughly exhausted or we had seen much more beautiful scenery in this trip that what we were seeing today was pretty ordinary. 

On our way we had lunch where the definition of Dal Makhani was ¾ Butter and ¼ Dal.. Same goes for chapattis.. After all it is PUNJAB

We were at the airport really early.. we had around 4 hours to kill at the airport. After freshening, relaxing, chit chatting we decided to play our very favourite UNO.

Trust me, we were a sight at the airport. Everyone was staring at us… Boss we were just playing cards..

Finally, it was it was time for us to board.. I think ours was the last flight for the day because when we were taxing we saw the lights of the airport being switched off..

After two and a half hour flight, when we landed at the Mumbai airport we thought we have entered a fish market. There were so many people..  I must have not seen so many people in totality in the entire ten day trip..

With that I realized that we are back.. our vacation is over.. and we are back in the mad rush.. in the rat race..

As I sit in the car to head home I already had frown lines on my face.. so much crowd.. so much rush.. honking.. pushing.. oh God!!!

I have just stepped out of the airport and I feel I need a vacation already…

This was a trip which have made my love for Himalayas stronger.. I will for sure be going back in few years.. I will definitely be planning a short trip to Narkanda very soon in winters to enjoy the snow topped pine trees..

On my way home, I thought that the views which we saw in this trip to Kinnaur and Spiti were mesmerizing.. and at some point make you speechless.

The views were beautiful, spectacular, fascinating, mesmerizing, magical, mind blogging.. any other adjective left??? It was a life time experience because the journey and the destination both were magical. They just cast a spell on you.

But I realized that apart from the journey and the destination, which were both just out of the world.. I had the best company!! So the advice that I can give to fellow travelers is no matter where you go… to the Himalayas or to the turquoise blue water at Lakshadweep.. the best Company will always make you feel the best..

After all that’s what the vacations are for… to feel on top of the world!!!!

Points to Note:

• Book an Innova or a Xylo for a comfortable travel. As the roads are bad travel in Sumo or Maxx can be cumbersome.
  Although the distance between places (at times) is not far because of the rough terrain it takes a considerable time to go from one place to another. So plan accordingly.
• It is advised to start your day early and reach your destination while it is daylight. Please avoid driving once the sun sets. Driving in dark can be very dangerous.
• Please carry warm clothes including sweater, jacket, cap, mufflers, socks and gloves. Wear shoes and not sandals or chappals.
• Be easy on steps and while walking. Avoid brisk walk or running at high altitudes as the oxygen level is low.
• If you are feeling mountain sickness have chocolate or popcorn. It helps. Make it a point of sipping in water regularly.
• Please don’t litter and maintain the beauty of nature.
• Do stop enroute to appreciate the view and take the blessings from the stupas and temple there.
• At Chandrataal, we stayed at Parasol Camps. The tents are comfortable and warm. Bathrooms are not attached and the water is chilly.
• It is very windy and cold at Chandrataal camps specially after sun set. Do carry windsheeters and warm clothes. Pls cover your ears.
• In Manali, we stayed at Dragon Guesthouse, Old Manali. Its a beautiful hotel with big rooms, hot water and good food. 
• Don't forget to stop over and appreciate the views. After all the journey is as important as the destination.

  

Kaza – Hikkim – Komic – Langza – Kunzum Pass – Chandra Taal (14,100 Ft)

DAY 7 - KAZA- HIKKIM- KOMIC- LANGZA

Today we embarked our journey to see the other three villages near Kaza – Langza, Hikkim and Komic. All the three villages are near each other and not very far from Kaza. The drive was breathtaking and had relatively good roads.

Buddha Statue at Langza

We first headed to Langza which has a big Buddha statue just above the village. The Buddha statue is beautiful and from there you can enjoy 360 degree panoramic view. Langza is also known for its fossil stones. You will be very lucky if you found a fossil stone lying on the ground. If you want you can buy fossil stone which are sold by local people.

Buddha Statue - Up close

View from up there

Next we visited Komic, which is blessed with two monasteries. In one monastery, ladies are not allowed. The other monastery was quite and like other monasteries vibrant and colorful. It is the highest village in the world with a mere 200 people living there.

Komic Village

Let's just stay here forever!!

Next we headed to Hikkim, which has the world’s highest post office. Do visit the post office and send some post cards to your loved ones. When we went to the post office the manager had gone to Kaza to buy post cards and stationery and his son was in-charge of the post office. He asked us to write the required details (address, your personal message and mobile number) on a blank page and promised us that he will send the post card once the stationery is received.

World's Highest Post Office at Hikkim

As promised, I did receive the post card from Hikkim. Post card from the highest post office in the world is like a medal for a travel lover.

Spiti is full of picturesque villages. There is nothing much to see in these villages but to enjoy the natural beauty which I am sure is what you came for in the first place. Serenity and pristine beauty of the village will definitely fascinate your imagination.

After seeing these small villages in Spiti, few questions come in my mind. How do these people endure winters here where the temperature can go below -20 degrees? How do these people procure food and other items? There are no shops, nothing? What do these people do when they are visited by snow leopards in winters? There life is tough and full of hard work but you will find everyone with a smile on their face, happy and content.

During the last 2 days there were occasions we saw foreigners cycling the entire circuit (from Kaza to the villages). In the evening we were keen to try our hands at cycling a bit. But after a few minutes of cycling, we were out of breath!! This despite the gradient being largely flat and only slightly inclined.

This being our last night in Kaza, we chatted with our hotel owner (and also trip organizer) post dinner. He informed us that in winters, some people lock down their houses and go downhill where it is slightly warmer. Others who stay back, are the adventurous sorts (he being one of them). When the winter is just setting in, around December, they invite skiing experts and start adventure sport training for a few weeks. This is the only way they get to pass time and keep themselves occupied. 

The entire of Sakya Abode (Kaza) is extremely courteous and helpful. Though it may not be the best hotel in Kaza, in terms of facilities, it definitely makes up for it in terms of service standards.

DAY 8 - KAZA- LOHSAR- KUNZUM PASS- CHANDRATAAL LAKE

Today was a long day for us. We will be on road for about ten to twelve hours but we will be travelling through one of the most beautiful scenery of Spiti Valley. We will be crossing Kunzum Pass today to reach a high altitude lake – Chandrataal.

We started our journey early morning after a filling breakfast. The route to Chandrataal is very beautiful with breath taking different colours of mountains. As if a child had painted them and the teacher had not bothered to tell that the mountains can only be a boring brown or lush green.

After Kaza, at Lohsar do grab a bite to eat, as after Lohsar till Chandrataal you will not find any restaurant or Dhaba to eat. After Lohsar, the ascent to Kunzum Pass starts. Roads will again vanish and the roads will be no more than dirt tracks. From here till Rohtang Pass, there are absolutely no roads. These will be the worst roads you have ever driven on, so be ready for it.

On our way to Kunzum Pass

Kunzum Pass remains close for most part of the year and is open for a few months only. It is the highest pass in the region and divides Spiti and Lahaul regions.  At Kunzum Pass, you will see few stupas and numerous colorful prayer flags fluttering, since the Pass is at a height it is very windy and cold. There is a temple just next to the stupas. We got off at the pass and clicked few pictures as the view from here is stunning.

Kunzum Pass

Colourful Flags at Kunzum Pass

After spending sometime here we started again towards Chandrataal. The road was dangerously narrow and of not too great quality. As you get closer to Chandrataal, you will see various camping and tents accommodation. 

You cannot take your vehicle till the lake. So we stopped our vehicle around 20 mins before the lake and started trekking towards the lake. It is windy and therefore warm clothes are recommended. After trekking for some time we saw the first glimpse of Chandrataal Lake. No amount of Google images could have prepared us for the beautiful sight that lies in front of our eyes. I was smitten by this beautiful Lake.

Trek to Chandrataal Lake

First glimpse of Chandrataal Lake

The serene Lake

The lake was pristine blue, with mountains on all sides, the sand near the lake is white and soft as talcum powder. It was sheer bliss.

Isn't this pure bliss???

Some Craziness!!!

We wanted to just settle there. It was without doubt the most beautiful thing on our Spiti Trip. After spending around two hours at the lake, walking around the lake, taking pictures, lazing around, we started heading back towards our car as it was getting cold and windy.

Once back in our car we headed to our tents where we had made arrangements to stay overnight. This was the second time when we were staying in tents (first was in Jispa during our trip to Ladakh in 2011). Once we reached the compound of the tents we were immediately shown our tents and were asked to come to the kitchen to have hot tea. (By the time they bring tea from the kitchen to our tents, it turns cold!!) After piping hot tea we felt refreshed and again settled ourselves in one tent for numerous rounds of UNO.

Tents near Chandrataal Lake

Camps near Chandrataal

Once inside the tent we were so warm that we didn’t want to step out for even using the washroom or having dinner. They serve dinner in a huge tent, where everyone from the camp assembles. They gave us garlic soup directly from the stove and it was not burning our tongue… just imagine how cold it was there in the month of July. God knows what happens there in December.

After a hot dinner we headed to our tents for a peaceful sleep, with Chandrataal Lake in our mind and thanking the Mother Nature for everything that she has gifted us.

Points to Note:

• Book an Innova or a Xylo for a comfortable travel. As the roads are bad travel in Sumo or Maxx can be cumbersome.
• Although the distance between places (at times) is not far because of the rough terrain it takes a considerable time to go from one place to another. So plan accordingly.
• It is advised to start your day early and reach your destination while it is daylight. Please avoid driving once the sun sets. Driving in dark can be very dangerous.
• Please carry warm clothes including sweater, jacket, cap, mufflers, socks and gloves. Wear shoes and not sandals or chappals.
• Be easy on steps and while walking. Avoid brisk walk or running at high altitudes as the oxygen level is low.
• If you are feeling mountain sickness have chocolate or popcorn. It helps. Make it a point of sipping in water regularly.
• Please don’t litter and maintain the beauty of nature.
• Do stop over at Kunzum Pass to appreciate the view and take the blessings from the stupas and temple there.
• Chandrataal Lake is a 15-20 mins trek. Take your own time walking and appreciate the natural beauty. The lake is a beautiful sight, savor every moment.  
• In Kaza we stayed at Hotel  Sakya Abode. The rooms were a little small but were built in accordance with old architecture. It is made of mud and is thus cold resistant. The staff and restaurant of this hotel is excellent. Must stay at Kaza. 
• The monastery and the temple at Kaza is a three mins walk from the hotel.
• At Chandrataal, we stayed at Parasol Camps. The tents are comfortable and warm. Bathrooms are not attached and the water is chilly.
• It is very windy and cold at Chandrataal camps specially after sun set. Do carry windsheeters and warm clothes. Pls cover your ears.
• Don't forget to stop over and appreciate the views. After all the journey is as important as the destination.

Road Trip around Spiti Valley in 10 Days

We had come back from our wonderful trip to Kerala and Lakshadweep in October 2015 and it was in the month of January 2016 when I started pondering on “where to go next?”

I was keen on revisiting Ladakh but had still not made my mind. That is when I saw a picture of Kee Monastery… and bang… I got the answer to my question..

Kee Monastery

By February I had researched quite a bit on Spiti and had decided to do a road trip to Kinnaur and Spiti Valley in the month of July. Spiti according to me is a world inside another world because of its remoteness. There is no airport in Spiti, closest airport being Shimla or Kullu. Spiti Valley is one of the gemstone in Himachal Pradesh, which most of the people are not even aware about.

Situated at the North East region of Himachal Pradesh, it is a part of Lahaul and Spiti District. Rohtang Pass at 13,045 feet (3,979 m) separates Lahaul and Spiti from Kullu Valley. And Lahaul and Spiti are separated by Kunzum Pass at 15,059 feet (4,590 m) which offers breathtaking views.

Calling it a paradise on earth won’t be wrong; as the world’s mightiest mountain range – the Himalayas – makes Spiti a perfect destination for adventure travel seekers.   

Home to a numerous Buddhist Monasteries, white washed houses, breathtaking mountains, Spiti feels even more remote and rugged than Ladakh. The valley is also home to one of the nest road trips in Asia – Spiti - Kinnaur Route.

What else do you need for a memorable holiday???

In the first week of July this year, five and a half of us – Pramod, Preeti, Taashi (half), Nikhil, Nikki (my sister – first time on our annual vacation) and me - embarked on a trip to the less popular but equally surreal cousin of Ladakh : Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh.

After our visit to Sikkim, finally I was back to where I belong, “The Mighty Himalayan Peaks”.

It is said that the journey is more important than the destination and this trip proves just that.

Before sharing my road trip experience in detail to Kinnaur & Spiti, I want to share a glimpse of our trip.

Tribal Circuit

We did the Tribal Circuit – Entering from Shimla, passing through Kinnaur region, entering Spiti and exiting from Manali.

Our itinerary for this trip was as follows:

Day 1 - Chandigarh- Shimla- Kufri- Narkanda
Day 2 - Narkanda- Rampur- Sarahan- Wangtoo- Sangla
Day 3 - Sangla- Chitkul- Kalpa

Day 4 – Kalpa- Pooh- Khab- Nako- Sumdo- Tabo
Day 5 -  Tabo- Dhankar- Kaza

Day 6 - Kaza- Kye- Khibber- Kaza

Day 7 - Kaza- Hikkim- Komic- Langza-Kaza
Day 8 - Kaza- Lohsar- Kunzum Pass- Chandrataal Lake
Day 9 - Chandrataal- Batal- Chatru- Gramphoo- Rohtang Pass- Manali
Day 10 - Manali- Kullu- Mandi- Chandigarh- Mumbai

Some of the pics to give you a sense of the beauty:

View at Narkanda

Beautiful Hills

Mesmerizing Himalayas

Kalpa

Kibber Village

Buddha Statue at Langza

ChandraTaal

Kunzum Pass

Stay tuned for the day by day detailed description of our trip to Kinnaur & Spiti. This is the journey to the roads less travelled… literally!!!