Tabo – Dhankar – Kaza – Kye – Khibber – Kaza (11,980 Ft)

DAY 5 - TABO- DHANKAR- KAZA

Finally, we are in Spiti. Till now we were in Kinnaur region of Himachal Pradesh. I was the first one to be up in the morning. I reached for my camera and was out of the hotel to explore the small and silent village, Tabo. It’s primary attraction is the Tabo Monastey and that is where I headed. The town itself is an island of peace and tranquility, secluded from the rest of the world.

Tabo Monastery Entrance

The monastery was a stone’s throw away from our hotel. High up in the Himalayas, elevated at 11,000 ft, the monastery here is the lifeline of this peaceful village. Indian and foreign tourists make their way to this village to visit the over 1000 year old monastery, a World Heritage Site. In fact, Tabo came onto the tourist map when the monastery turned a 1000 years old in 1996.

New Monastery at Tabo

 Tabo Monastery is said to be one of the Dalai Lama’s favorite. Unlike the other monasteries this monastery is much understated in appearance. This monastery is more spiritual and not so eye candy.

The old monastery consists of mud gompas which was surrounded by dry mountains of the region. Inside the monastery there are no lights. You are advised to carry a torch or use the torch light from your mobile phones. The interior architecture of the monastery is breath taking and beautiful with numerous wooden pillars and paintings of reincarnation of Buddha. Just when you enter the old monastery you can buy small Buddhist trinkets and postcards as souvenirs from Tabo.

Tabo Monastery

As we roamed in the courtyard, I just thought that 1000 years ago people went through so much of hardship to come to such a remote place, under such hard climatic conditions and build this monastery.

From the monastery you can see the caves where the monks went to for solitary meditation. It is said that some of them are still used by monks for meditation. If you are game, you can trek and use these caves for meditation as well.

You will find a large – “om ma ni padme hum” written on the mountain face. You will also find colorful prayer flags flying on top of every house. As we took a round around the place we saw small kids playing soccer… and that too not just kicking around the ball, but dodging and controlling the ball deftly. People amongst us were facing problem breathing and here were these kids, running around and playing soccer gleefully… wow…

We were also fortunate to see a glimpse of a wedding taking place in Tabo.

Enroute Dhankar

After visiting the thousand year old monastery at Tabo, we started towards Dhankar. Dhankar is another small town but at a much higher altitude than Tabo and has a very old monastery. The drive to Dhankar became more and more beautiful. It overlooks the fusion of two rivers – Pin & Spiti. At Dhankar, there are two monasteries – New Monastery and old monastery. The old monastery is an endangered site as it is very old but has stood the test of time. The monastery is simple and looks beautiful from afar, perched on a hilltop.

Dhankar Village

Dhankar Monastery Entrance

New Monastery at Dhankar

After the visit to the monasteries we decided to trek few kilometers uphill to reach the high altitude Dhankar Lake. The trek can be a problem for few because of lack of oxygen at such an altitude. The lake is grand and the trek is highly rewarding. Preeti and Taashi stayed back and the rest of us decided to venture on to the trek. 

View while Trekking to Dhankar Lake

Another View

Not used to exercise at this altitude, we were soon panting while going uphill. We had to take a 1 minute break after every 3-4 minutes of uphill climbing. However, we eventually reached the shimmering emerald green Dhankar Lake. There is a stupa near the Lake where you will find numerous colorful prayer flags fluttering in the wind.

Dhankar Lake

In the middle of Nowhere

We decided to relax and enjoy the lake for a while before heading downhill. The calmness of the lake soothed us and we were willing to spend hours here. After a while, we decided to head back and saw a group of horses near the lake. It was a sight to behold.

Horses near Dhankar Lake

Once back to Dhankar Village we headed to the restaurant in Dhankar Monastery for lunch. We were very tired and hungry after the trek.

Post a fulfilling Chinese lunch we headed to Kaza – the head quarter of Spiti district. We were staying in Kaza for three nights and seeing many small villages nearby – Kye, Khibber, Komic, Langza and Hikkim. 

Enroute Kaza

By the time we reached Kaza, the sun was about to set and we were tired. We checked in our hotel – Sakya Abode and decided to rest. The attendant brought us hot tea and we were in seventh heaven. We were informed by the attendant that the hotel is the first hotel of Kaza and is built in accordance with old architecture. It is made of mud and is thus cold resistant. 

We all sat in one room and played Uno. Post dinner, the hotel manager gave a home-made remedy (ginger, garlic in boiling water) to Nikhil and Nikki who were facing breathing problem while sleeping.

DAY 6 - KAZA- KYE- KHIBBER- KAZA

As usual I was up early and decided to go for a stroll. But this time I had Pramod and Nikki to give me company. Just 2 mins walk from our hotel was Kaza Monastery. It was beautiful. Our timing for our early morning visit was bang on. Just when we entered the monastery two monks started blowing shanks (conch shell). It was a call for all the monks to gather at the monastery for prayers.

Monastery at Kaza

We saw monks of all age and build running to the monastery from all the directions with cups in hand. I think after the prayers they will all be given hot tea and snacks. Once all the monks were settled in the monastery they started chanting and we could just stand there and listen. Their chanting brought peace in our mind.

After listening to their chanting for some time we decided to continue our walk and saw seven stupas right infront of the monastery. Moving forward we saw the highest petrol pump in the world of Indian Oil.

Stupas infront of the monastery

After strolling for some time and witnessing the village waking up we headed back to our hotel.

After a good shower and garam garam aloo ke parathe we headed for Kye and Khibber Village. The drive between Kaza to Khibber is surreal. The mountains are huge and you can see different shades of colors covering the mountains. After a small drive (as compared to the drive we have been undertaking) we reached the village – Khibber. It was a very small village at a picturesque location. If I am not wrong, at 14,200 ft it is one of the highest inhabited village and the highest polling station in the world. 

Enroute Khibber

While we were walking in the village and heading to the monastery in Khibber we realized that the village is empty. All the houses are locked and there is practically no one. May be the entire village have gone to their small patches of land where they grow vegetables for themselves.

Khibber

Houses at Khibber

After walking in the village and facing little difficulty in finding the monastery we finally reached the monastery. The monastery is nothing to talk about, but the view from there was mesmerizing. As it is situated at 14,000 ft plus altitude you might find it difficult to breathe.

View from Monastery

After Khibber Village we headed to one of the most awaited place in our itinerary – Kye Monastery. After going mad for fifteen minutes clicking pictures of Key monastery from afar we gave up.

Kye Monastery

At Kye, we were given tea by monks and just like at the monastery in Kaza we saw monks chanting in Kye Monastery. The view is beautiful and left us spell bound. We just didn’t want to go back. We wanted to stay here, see the vast expanse of mountains and the river passing through it. It was stunning and left all of us speechless. Just at the entrance of Kye monastery if you walk downhill you will find a small place where 3 statues in golden color are erected. Go there if not for the statues, then for clicking a picture with Kye monastery in the back ground.

Three statues in Golden near Kye Monastery

Once back to Kaza, we all headed to the main market for lunch and some shopping. In Kaza, you can buy souvenirs and gifts for loved ones. Kaza market is colorful and spacious. The items here are expensive due to high transportation cost. I found a nice place selling jackets at really economical price and another shop from where you can buy your trekking gear. I bought a couple of shawls from a shop here.

Vibrant Market at Kaza

The market was full of shops selling colorful dragon printed mugs, cups with cover, thermos, caps, mufflers, wollen socks, sweaters etc. There were a couple of shops selling souvenirs and handicraft items but were very expensive.

After loads of shopping we headed back to the hotel. Like yesterday we again made ourselves cozy in one room, called for coffee and started playing UNO. (Uno by now has become our favorite game in this trip).

Today for dinner the hotel has made authentic Spiti food. It’s more like steamed cooked food. The soup served was delicious. The main course not so mice but if you are fond of momos or steam cooked food you will like it. They had also given a potato curry which had pasta like thing in that. It was yummy. Remember the chutney served is very spicy – be careful.

Post dinner and the ritual hot water with ginger and garlic (today’s was stronger than yesterday) for Nikhil and Nikki we called off the day.

Points to Note:

• Book an Innova or a Xylo for a comfortable travel. As the roads are bad travel in Sumo or Maxx can be cumbersome.
• Although the distance between places (at times) is not far because of the rough terrain it takes a considerable time to go from one place to another. So plan accordingly.
• It is advised to start your day early and reach your destination while it is daylight. Please avoid driving once the sun sets. Driving in dark can be very dangerous.
• Please carry warm clothes including sweater, jacket, cap, mufflers, socks and gloves. Wear shoes and not sandals or chappals.
• Be easy on steps and while walking. Avoid brisk walk or running at high altitudes as the oxygen level is low.
• If you are feeling mountain sickness have chocolate or popcorn. It helps. Make it a point of sipping in water regularly.
• Please don’t litter and maintain the beauty of nature.
• Do stop over at Dhankar to see the monastery and have lunch while appreciating the view.
• Dhankar Lake is a three to four kms trek uphill. It is not meant for everyone. Trekking at high altitude is a very serious affair. Only and only if you think you are fit go ahead else the moment you start feeling uneasy stop and rest. Once you feel better start trekking downhill. 
• In Kaza we stayed at Hotel  Sakya Abode. The rooms were a little small but were built in accordance with old architecture. It is made of mud and is thus cold resistant. The staff and restaurant of this hotel is excellent. Must stay at Kaza. 
• The monastery and the temple at Kaza is a three mins walk from the hotel.
• Don't forget to stop over and appreciate the views. After all the journey is as important as the destination.

Sangla – Chitkul – Kalpa – Nako – Tabo (10,760 Ft)

DAY 3 - SANGLA- CHITKUL- KALPA

Again at 5:00 am I woke up and peeped out of the window. I could not see anything. It was all white…. fog everywhere… I could just not see anything. As if the huge mountains which were there till last night are not there today morning. As I could not see anything outside the window I went back to bed. And after ten mins there was a knock on the door. Pramod was up and wanted some company. Gradually everyone got up and we spend some time doing absolutely nothing.

Today we could travel at leisure – there was no need to start early as we won’t be covering much distance today. After a breakfast of delicious aloo parathas and curd we headed to Chitkul which is the last village on the Indo – Tibet Border. The drive was picturesque and mesmerizing. On our way we stopped over at a waterfall and clicked some pictures.

Bridge En-route Chitkul

En-route Chitkul

Madness en-route Chitkul

If you thought Sangla was beautiful, wait till you see Chitkul; it will sweep you off your feet. It is a very small village with hardly 100 houses and is surrounded by the impressive Himalayas and River Baspa flowing nearby. There is absolutely nothing to do at this place except enjoying the scenic beauty. The only sound that you will hear in this place is that of the flowing Baspa and birds chirping.

Chitkul - The last village towards Tibet

River Baspa at Chitkul (freezing cold water)

We headed towards the River bed and enjoyed a walk near the flowing river. Did our ritual of clicking loads of pictures till it started drizzling and the valley turned into heaven.

Since it was drizzling we decided to have a hot cup of tea and piping hot maggi at “The Last Dhaba of Hindustan”.

Once the weather had cleared we headed to the beautiful temple located behind the main road of Chitkul. The architecture of this temple is exactly like the Berinag Temple at Sangla. Chitkul remains close in winters due to snow and is very famous for its potatoes.

Temple at Chitkul

Close up of the temple, Chitkul

We were not ready to leave this place, but we had to head to another beautiful place in Kinnaur Kalpa. After a lip licking maggi and tea we hit the road again. For going to Kalpa, we had to head back to Sangla, reach the bridge near Karchamm and then follow the road to Sangla.

View en-route Kalpa

We had earlier decided to visit Kamru Fort in Sangla on our way back from Chitkul but we gave it a miss as we wanted to reach Kalpa in day light.

We had our lunch at Reckong Peo which is the district head quarter. You can also indulge yourself in shopping of Kinnauri Caps and Shawl.

Reckong Peo Market

After lunch and a bit of shopping (Alas!) we were again charged up for the beautiful town Kalpa. Once you reach the main market of the Recong Peo, there is a road that goes left, further uphill. Take this road and you will reach Kalpa roughly after 10 kms from here.

Reckong Peo - Snapshots

Kalpa is again located at a height and offers breath taking views of the Himalayas. Kalpa is famous for apple orchards and scenic beauty. The town boasts of a temple (same architecture as in Sangla & Chitkul) and Lochawa-La-Khang (Samdub Choeling) monastery. We had booked Hotel Golden Apple in Kalpa which was a very comfortable stay. We had a Himalayan mountain view facing room and the size of the room was huge, bigger than any room we had stayed in this trip so far.

We barely had an evening in Kalpa and I was not too hopeful of accomplishing much. After a much needed tea and coffee break, we strolled towards the town. It was very cold and windy. And we all had our woolens and caps on. The Peaks of Kinner Kailash were in full glory in Kalpa. After a twenty mins walk we reached the Buddhist monastery. It was the first Monastery which we saw in our trip… (many more to follow). We decided to first head to the Kinnaur style Temple which was a little further away. The way to the temple is through the school’s compound. The temple was again made in wood and huge. Since we arrived around 7 pm it was already closed and thus we could see it only from outside.

Kalpa

View from Kalpa

Mesmerizing Himalayas, Kalpa

On our way back we stopped over at the Monastery. You need to climb four five steps and you will see the white colored stupa. On the right side of the Stupa is the monastery, which is lined on all four sides with prayer wheels.

Monastery at Kalpa

Stupa at Kalpa

Temple at Kalpa

Like all the monasteries it was very colorful with lots of ghee lanterns. There was a huge prayer wheel just when you enter the monastery on the right side. You can feel your body relaxing once you are inside the monastery.

Ghee Lanterns at Kalpa Monastery

After spending some time at the monastery we walked back to our hotel where we had a warm soup and a scrumptious dinner.

Sangla and Kalpa are two places where we saw some breathtaking views of the Himalayas. These two towns are perfect places to find solace amidst Himalayas. I wish I could have spend more time here, doing nothing, just wandering here and there and taking in the view of the mountains which keep mesmerizing you every second.

DAY 4 - KALPA- POOH- KHAB- NAKO- SUMDO- TABO

As usual I got up early morning and peeked out of my window and what I saw outside left me speechless. I was out of my room with my camera in a jiffy and heading to the terrace. Once up there it took me a while to switch on the camera because I didn’t want to stop looking at the beautiful landscape in front of me. It seemed so surreal I didn’t want to blink even once… 

Early morning view from Hotel at Kalpa

Isn't it breathtaking beautiful??

I wish I could stay here forever

Finally after a while I switched on the camera (when I could not bear the cold any further) and took some pictures. I went on clicking to get the perfect picture but moments like these can never be captured in images, they can just be experienced. 

After taking some pictures I headed down to wake Nikhil and Nikki.. to see the beautiful gift nature has given us early morning.

Today, we had a long distance to cover, therefore we started early. Once again we had to travel back on the same road to the point where we took the turn at Reckong Peo. Once back on the highway, we headed towards Pooh (no connection whatsoever with Winnie the Pooh). The roads were a disaster. They were typical mountain roads, with lot of wear and tear due to continuous landslides.

Confluence of Sutlej and Spiti

On our way we crossed the point of confluence of River Sutlej (from China) and River Spiti. 

Hair Pin bends

View En route to Nako

After Pooh, the roads were again smooth. Pretty soon we found our self amidst rock mountains and hair pin bends.

What a view

Clear Blue Sky

It was after Khab that we had a tire puncture. We reached Nako around lunch time.. Nako has nothing much to offer other than Nako Lake. It is a very small and silent village. The Lake is actually a pond with emerald color water.

Nako Village

Nako Lake

We were all a little disappointed after the Nako Lake. Very near Nako we stopped over for a simple lunch of rajma and chawal. Since we had used our spare tire, our driver asked another tourist Innova (our driver knew that car’s driver) to accompany us as they were also heading to Tabo. On our way to Tabo we got our spare tire rectified and we were now good to go.

Near Nako

Lunch near Nako - Rajma Chawal and Onion..

A few kms before Tabo, we came across a cemented gate on our right which heads to Gue Village. Gue is famous for a 650 year old mummy and is worth a visit. From the gate it is an 8 kms drive and the mummy is placed on a hill top and is hard to miss. After visiting the mummy and taking few pictures we drove back 8 kms till the cemented gate and headed to Tabo.

Gue - Mummy & Monastery

Gue Village

Primary attraction of Tabo is a 1000 year old monastery and it is because of this monastery that Spiti came on the Travel World Map. There are many guesthouses to stay at Tabo including a guest house of the monastery. Tabo is located in the middle of the sand mountains and it had more foreigners than Indians.

We all were tired after a long day on road, so we decided to relax and visit the monastery tomorrow morning. We had tea and snacks in the guesthouse and then headed to our every evening ritual of transferring pictures and videos on Pramod’s laptop and seeing the same.

After seeing all the pictures of the day we again headed downstairs for dinner. Tonight was the first night when Nikhil faced problem sleeping because of the altitude. He tried sleeping with his head raised by putting extra pillows under his head; he tried sleeping in a sitting position. It was a bad night for him.

Points to Note:

• Book an Innova or a Xylo for a comfortable travel. As the roads are bad travel in Sumo or Maxx can be cumbersome.
• Although the distance between places (at times) is not far because of the rough terrain it takes a considerable time to go from one place to another. So plan accordingly.
• It is advised to start your day early and reach your destination while it is daylight. Please avoid driving once the sun sets. Driving in dark can be very dangerous.
• Please carry warm clothes including sweater, jacket, cap, mufflers, socks and gloves. Wear shoes and not sandals or chappals.
• Be easy on steps and while walking. Avoid brisk walk or running at high altitudes as the oxygen level is low.
• If you are feeling mountain sickness have chocolate or popcorn. It helps. Make it a point of sipping in water regularly.
• Please don’t litter and maintain the beauty of nature.
• In Kalpa we stayed at Hotel Golden Apple and in Tabo at Hotel Tiger Den. The rooms are huge in Hotel Golden Apple with beautiful view from rooms and terrace. The monastery and the temple at Kalpa are ten mins walk from the hotel. The rooms in Hotel Tiger Den are small but it is very close to Tabo Monastery. Tabo, as such, is a very small village.
• Don't miss taking the extra drive to Chitkul from Sangla. Its worth the drive. The views are beautiful.
• You can stop at Nako for lunch and can see the lake. Also, before Tabo take a turn and drive extra 8 kms to see the mummy at Gue. 
• Don't forget to stop over and appreciate the views. After all the journey is as important as the destination.